Itineraries
Canaan Valley Heritage Loop
Journey Overview
Canaan Valley Heritage Loop is a three-day journey from Thomas and Davis through Seneca Rocks and Petersburg, exploring coal and coke industrial revolution sites, Potomac frontier pioneer settlements, and dramatic natural history. Visitors discover massive coke oven ruins, restored pioneer homesteads, and the human stories behind West Virginia’s mountain landscapes at Blackwater Falls, Seneca Rocks, and easy trails through Dolly Sods and Bear Rocks. The route reveals three distinct eras spanning from geological formation through industrial transformation of the Allegheny Highlands in the late 1800s.
Best Times to Visit
Late May through mid-October offers optimal conditions for heritage exploration.
- Museums, visitor centers, and historic sites operate on full schedules.
- Living history demonstrations at Sites Homestead typically occur on summer weekends.
- Fall foliage provides dramatic backdrops for historic ruins and structures.
- Forest roads to remote historic sites are reliably passable.
- Comfortable temperatures for walking tours and outdoor exploration.
Itinerary
Day 1: Thomas & Davis Industrial Heritage
COKETON & CONNOQUENESSING SANDSTONE
Morning
Breakfast in Thomas & Davis
- TipTop Coffee Bar (Thomas): Artisan coffee, baked goods, and light fare in a cozy space popular with locals and visitors.
- Happy & More Bakery & Cafe (Thomas): Pastries, light café fare, and casual breakfast options in a friendly small-town setting
- Sawmill Restaurant (Davis): Big, old-fashioned breakfasts and buckwheat cakes.
- Trailhead Coffee Shop (Davis): Specialty coffee and grab-and-go bites in a relaxed space frequented by hikers and travelers.
- The Breakfast Nook (Canaan Valley): Hearty morning classics in a cozy, family-style environment
Coke Company Store & Administrative Building
Follow Douglas Road out of Thomas for half a mile to a small roundabout.
While the mines stretched into the west, the heart of the Davis Coal & Coke Company was located between these imposing brick historic landmarks. The Buxton & Landstreet Company store, built in 1900, served as the retail arm of Davis Coal & Coke Company, whose administrative offices are located across the street. The building now houses Buxton & Landstreet Gallery, selling West Virginia artisan goods. The original glossy white brick walls, hardwood floors, and industrial ceilings remain intact.
Miners were paid in company scrip redeemable only at the company store. With housing, utilities, doctor bills, and union dues deducted from wages, many miners ended up owing more than they earned.
You’ll also find a historic marker commemorating the start of one of West Virginia’s pivotal Civil Rights battles. In 1892, Carrie Williams, a teacher at the Coketon Colored School, sued the county for its reduced term for African American Students. Represented by J. R. Clifford, state’s first African Amerian lawyer, Carrie brought her fight to the Parsons Courthouse and eventually, the state’s Supreme Court- winning equal pay for teachers and longer terms for students. The school was closed in 1954.
Coketon Industrial Complex
Continue driving for a half-mile on Douglas Road before turning left onto Rail Falls Road for another half-mile. Although the road is bumpy, it is passable for most vehicles.
Park at the interpretive signage area and walk along part of the Blackwater Canyon Trail to explore the ruins of one of West Virginia’s largest coking operations. In 1883, prospectors for Senator Henry Gassaway Davis discovered rich coal seams, and by 1887, the Davis Coal & Coke Company began building what would become the third-largest coking facility in the state.
Peak operations in Coketon lasted from 1900-1920 and included 12 active mines and 1,235 beehive coke ovens, used in the production of steel. During this period, over 1,300 employees from 16 nationalities worked brutal 12-hour shifts. At its height, Coketon’s production reached 8,000 tons of coal per day, totalling nearly 200,000 tons of coke per year. While in operation, fires burned 24/7—creating a soft glow was visible for miles. In the interwar years, Coketon and the Tucker County region was filled with union energy due to unsafe working conditions, met with equally energetic company reprisals.
Continuing another half-mile to the end of the road features several impressive waterfalls, including Douglas Falls, however navigation may not be suitable for lower-clearance vehicles.
- Distance: 1-2 miles out-and-back on rail-trail
- Elevation Gain: Minimal
- Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours
- Difficulty: Easy
Midday
Historic Thomas Walking Tour
The historic coal town of Thomas swelled from remote wilderness to over 2,300 residents by 1910, with surrounding coal camps bringing the total population to nearly 5,000. Many of these workers were immigrants from southeastern Europe, bringing hallmarks of their culinary traditions and architectural inclinations to the Appalachians. The Thomas Commercial Historic District preserves the coal boom era’s downtown architecture. Guided by historic signage, the walking tour highlights the landmarks and legacies of the Allegheny Highlands transformation.
Key Sites:
- Davis Coal & Coke Administration Building (1900): Headquarters for the vast mining empire
- Cottrill Opera House (1902): 365-seat Vaudeville theater showing cultural aspirations of the mining town
- Thomas Mine Disaster Memorial: Honoring 25 miners killed February 4, 1907
- Historic company housing: Duplex-style homes preferred by Davis Coal & Coke
Lunch in Thomas & Davis
- Purple Fiddle (Thomas): Farm-to-table laid-back dining with live music that showcases regional roots and touring artists in a historic building.
- Sirianni’s Pizza Cafe (Davis): Hand-tossed pizzas and casual Italian dishes served in a rustic, family-friendly setting.
- Big Belly Deli (Davis): Hearty sandwiches and comfort staples ideal for refueling after outdoor adventures
- The Smokehouse (Blackwater Falls): provides homestyle meals and BBQ-inspired plates right inside the state park lodge near scenic overlooks
Afternoon
Blackwater Falls State Park History
Drive to Blackwater Falls State Park to see the famous waterfall and learn about the region’s natural and human history. The park was established in 1937, built largely by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. At the falls, learn about Conquessing Sandstone and the geologic forces that fed Tucker County’s economic boom, grab a picture at an Almost Heaven swing, and read the first-hand accounts of early explorers like David Hunter Strother, a journalist, artist, and politician better known by his pseudonym Porte Crayon.
There are two ADA accessible viewing areas on either side of the falls.
To learn more, stop at the park’s Nature Center to learn about the region’s logging history and ecological recovery.
Night
Dinner
- Ish Kitchen (Davis): Globally inspired comfort dishes made with seasonal ingredients in a casual, welcoming setting.
- Milo’s Cafe and Restaurant (Davis): Homestyle meals and American fare with friendly service and a laid-back small-town atmosphere.
- Wicked Wilderness Pub (Davis): Pub favorites, craft drinks, and a warm adventurous vibe popular with outdoor recreation visitors.
Evening Drinks
- Stumptown Ales (Davis): Hop-heavy local microbrewery with a passion for craft beer; small tasting room with relaxed atmosphere
- Mountain State Brewing Company (Thomas): Pizza ovens, patio seating, and a full lineup of draft and canned beverages
- Big Timber Logging Camp (Davis): Satellite location of Elkins’ famous Big Timber Brewery with a wide array of sours, IPAs, and lagers.
- Tie One On Taphouse and Fly Shop (Thomas): Reel in quick, locally made bites and craft beer.
Evening Activities
- Purple Fiddle (Thomas): Regular live music from touring bands and local stars at this iconic venue
- Guided Night Hikes: Check calendars at local state parks and the wildlife refuge for seasonal programs
- Seasonal Music Series: Check calendars for festivals at Canaan Valley Resort and Timberline Mountain
Lodging Options
- Blackwater Falls State Park Lodge: 51 renovated rooms with canyon views; on-site Smokehouse restaurant; comfortable, convenient base for Day 3
- Canaan Valley Resort State Park Lodge: Full-service resort with lodge rooms and cabin accommodations; pool, fitness center, dining
- Billy Motel (Davis): Boutique lodging option in Thomas, West Virginia, blending quirky, retro-themed rooms with comfort and local charm
- Bright Morning Inn (Davis): Charming bed and breakfast with on-site Milo’s Cafe
- Vacation rentals: Numerous cabin and house rentals available throughout the Davis/Thomas area
Day 2: Thomas & Davis to Seneca Rocks & Petersburg
SITES HOMESTEAD & SPRUCE'S SUMMIT
Morning
Drive to Seneca Rocks
From Thomas/Davis, take US-33 East for approximately 30 miles (45 minutes) to Seneca Rocks.
The route follows historic transportation corridors used by Native Americans, early settlers, and the railroad builders who transformed the region.
Seneca Rocks Discovery Center
This Forest Service visitor center provides excellent interpretation of the region’s geological and human history. The 900-foot Tuscarora sandstone fin that dominates the landscape formed over 400 million years ago and has been a landmark for travelers for centuries. The 100,000 acre Seneca Rocks-Spruce Knob region is also the US Forest Service’s first National Recreation Area, established by Congress in 1965, paving the way for new recreation spaces on public lands across the United States.
Historical Exhibits:
- Geological formation of the Allegheny Mountains
- Native American presence
- Pioneer settlement patterns
- History of rock climbing at Seneca Rocks since the 1930s
- Role as Special Army Manuvers Area during WW2
Sites Homestead
Adjacent to the Discovery Center, this restored homestead tells the story of German immigrants who settled the Potomac frontier. In 1761, settlers including the Seitz family (anglicized to ‘Sites’) arrived in Germany Valley, attracted by healthy soil and inexpensive land.
Historical Timeline:
- 1839: Jacob Sites builds original single-room pen log cabin using German ‘Blockbau’ construction
- Mid-1850s: William Sites expands with two-story frame addition
- Civil War: William Sites fights for Confederacy, captured 1862, dies shortly after release
- 1862-1947: Various Sites descendants occupy the house
- 1968: U.S. Forest Service acquires property
- 1990: Restoration completed to 1850s appearance
Summer Programming: Living history demonstrations on weekends feature quilting, basket weaving, traditional music, frontier farming, and open-hearth cooking.
Midday
Lunch at Seneca Rocks
- Front Porch Restaurant and Harper’s Old Country Store: Established in 1902, Harpers is one of West Virginia’s oldest continuously operated businesses, with a small grocery store for picnic supplies and warm American staples like burgers, pizzas, at hot dogs.
Seneca Rocks Trail (Optional)
For those interested in experiencing the landmark up close, the trail to the observation platform offers views of the formation that has drawn travelers for centuries. The trail ascends almost a thousand feet, so may not be suitable for all audiences.
- Distance: 3.6 miles out-and-back
- Elevation Gain: 900 feet
- Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
Afternoon
Option A: Spruce Knob
From Seneca Rocks, follow US-33 south for 10 miles, then turn right onto Briery Gap Road for 2.5 miles. Follow Forest Service Roads and signage for next 8 miles to summit.
At 4,863 feet, Spruce Knob is the highest point in West Virginia. The wind-sculpted red spruce trees create an alpine environment unique in the eastern United States. This landscape represents remarkable ecological recovery—virtually the entire region was clearcut by 1920.
Whispering Spruce Trail
- Distance: 0.5 miles loop
- Elevation Gain: 50 feet (with tower climb)
- Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy
Natural History:
- Original old-growth spruce forest logged between 1880-1920
- Devastating slash fires burned across the denuded landscape
- Century of natural recovery has restored forest cover
- Wind-sculpted ‘flag’ trees show constant exposure to harsh conditions
Option B: Smoke Hole Caverns
From Seneca Rocks, drive north on US-28/55 for approximately 10 miles.
This show cave opened to the public on May 30, 1940, but its human history extends much further. The Seneca Indians reportedly used the entrance area to smoke game, giving the region its name. During Prohibition, the cavern’s secluded rooms and underground stream made it ideal for moonshine production- up to 20 stills reportedly operated at one time.
Estimated Time: 45-60 minute guided tour
Option C: Greenland Gap Preserve & Battlefield
From Seneca Rocks, drive north on US-28/55 for 12 miles, then continue straight on Jordan Run Road for another 12 miles. Turn left onto WV-42 for 5 miles, and right onto Old Scherr Road.
This remote Nature Conservancy Preserve marks one of the critical turning points in the Jones-Imboden Raid on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, a fierce mountain battle during the Civil War. Less than 100 Union soldiers fought for hours against nearly 2500 Confederate calvary to defend this unique mountain pass, giving the Federal garrison in Rowlesburg essential time to prepare and repulse southern advances. A small church and historic marker at the Old Scherr Road intersection provides first hand accounts of the bloody battle and it’s aftermath.
Continue to Petersburg
Continue north on US-28/55 for approximately 8 miles to Petersburg from Smoke Hole. From Greenland Gap return south on WV-42 for 20 miles.
At the edge of the rugged Allegheny Plateau, Petersburg has been a strategic crossroads since colonial times. The town was settled as early as 1745 and became Grant County seat in 1870.
Fort Mulligan Civil War Site
One of West Virginia’s best-preserved Civil War fortifications, Fort Mulligan was constructed in 1863 by Union Colonel James A. Mulligan to protect strategic road networks and the B&O Railroad. The earthworks remain visible today.
Historical Context:
1863: Union troops construct dirt earthworks with timber-lined walls.
1864: Confederate General Jubal Early’s forces approach; Union evacuates. Early’s men demolished much of the breastworks, leaving the fort never to be reoccupied.
- Distance: 0.5 miles walking loop
- Elevation Gain: Minimal
Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Night
Dinner in Petersburg
- The Hermitage Taphouse: Upscale-casual dining in a renovated 1841 inn—one of the oldest properties in Petersburg
Lodging Options
- The Hermitage Inn: Historic 1841 inn converted to hotel in 1881, recently renovated
- Smoke Hole Resort Cabins: Log cabins near the caverns
- Harman’s Log Cabins:
Day 3: Petersburg to Thomas & Davis
Remote restoration & wonderful wetlands
Morning
Breakfast in Petersburg
- The Grove Cafe & Bakery: Cozy cafe serving freshly baked goods, sandwiches, and coffee.
- Sue’s Country Kitchen: All-day home-style diner offering classic comfort meals and hearty breakfasts in a friendly, small-town setting
- South Side Studios: Cafe, art studio, cozy homegoods store, and visitors center rolled into one.
- Family Traditions: A casual eatery known for generous portions of traditional American and comfort food
Midday
Drive via Dolly Sods Road
From Petersburg, take US-28/55 South toward Cabins, then turn onto Forest Road 75. Drive to the Bear Rocks Preserve parking area at the end of FR-75, approximately 45-60 minutes.
Bear Rocks Preserve & Dolly Sods
This unique landscape tells a dramatic story of human impact and natural resilience. Before logging, the Dolly Sods plateau supported magnificent stands of red spruce and hemlock. Today’s treeless heath barrens result from logging and subsequent fires that burned the organic soil layer, creating conditions in which trees cannot readily regenerate.
Bear Rocks Trail
- Distance: Variable; 0.5-1 mile (loop)
- Elevation Gain: 50 ft
- Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy (but be careful on rocks)
Ecological History
- Pre-1900: Dense old-growth spruce forest covered the plateau.
- 1884-1920: Intensive logging removed virtually all timber. Slash fires burned repeatedly, consuming organic soil.
- Present: Unique boreal ecosystem with sphagnum bogs, cranberries, and stunted spruce
World War II History
The U.S. Army used Dolly Sods as an artillery and mortar training area during WWII. Unexploded ordnance was removed, but hikers are still advised to stay on marked trails.
Northland Interpretive Loop Trail
- Distance: 0.5 mile (loop)
- Elevation Gain: 50 ft
- Estimated Time: 20-30 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy
Afternoon
Drive to Canaan Valley
Continue north on Forest Road 75 to Laneville, then follow WV-32 north to Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge for approximately 30 minutes.
Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge
The Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge protects one of the highest and most unique mountain valleys in the eastern United States, where harsh climate, poor soils, and long winters historically limited large-scale settlement. Early residents carved out a difficult farm life through small homesteads and subsistence agriculture, often facing isolation and short growing seasons. Because intensive development never fully took hold, much of the valley’s wetland and meadow landscape remained intact. Today, the refuge preserves both this rare ecosystem and the story of the resilient families who once tried to make a living there. Stop by the Visitors Center to learn more about ongoing efforts to restore and protect this unique landscape, and visit their website to catch upcoming nature walks and wildlife presentations!
Farm View Trail
Discover what remains of those early farms in the rugged wilderness, including vintage farm equipment and tools.
- Distance: 2.5 miles (out-and-back)
- Elevation Gain: 150 ft
- Estimated Time: 45-60 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy-Moderate
Drive to Thomas and Davis
Complete the heritage loop with a final exploration of the mountain towns that rose and fell with the coal industry, and now thrive as cultural and outdoor recreation destinations.
Night
Farewell Dinner
Return to a favorite from Day 1 or discover something new!
Map
Planning Notes
Navigation & Cell Service
Cell service is limited throughout much of this route. Download offline maps before departing. The historic sites are generally well-marked, but GPS navigation may be unreliable on forest roads.
Historic Site Safety
At Coketon and other industrial ruins, do not enter collapsed structures—unstable brick is dangerous. View from safe distances and supervise children closely. Watch for poison ivy and snakes in overgrown areas.
Seasonal Considerations
Museums and visitor centers operate on fuller schedules from Memorial Day through October. Sites Homestead living history demonstrations typically occur on summer weekends—check with the Seneca Rocks Discovery Center for current programming. Fall foliage provides dramatic backdrops for historic sites, typically peaking in early to mid-October at these elevations.
Photography
Early morning and late afternoon light is best for historic structures. The coke oven ruins are particularly atmospheric in morning fog. Black and white conversions work well for industrial ruins. Include people for scale when photographing the massive coke ovens and earthworks.