Itineraries
Blackwater Canyon Heritage Loop
Journey Overview
Blackwater Canyon Heritage Loop explores three centuries of Tucker and Randolph County history through a continuous driving circuit connecting historic towns, battlefields, and landscapes. The three-day route reveals Colonial Era surveys, Civil War conflicts that helped birth West Virginia, railroad depots that transformed wilderness into industrial centers, early civil rights victories, and New Deal-era landscape recovery. Designed for comfort with minimal walking, the loop can be started in any town and followed in either direction, making it ideal for history enthusiasts and heritage travelers.
Best Times to Visit
May through October offer optimal conditions for this heritage tour.
- Late spring offers the Waterfalls at peak flow, rhododendron and wildflower blooms, comfortable temperatures, and fewer crowds. Trails may be muddy.
- Midsummer offers the warmest weather, the best conditions for swimming at Douglas Falls, ripe blueberries in the high country, and the scenic chairlift operating at Canaan Valley.
- Midfall showcases spectacular foliage at these elevations, and it is also the most popular time. Book accommodations well in advance.
- Late winter powder days transform the valley into a winter wonderland, with striking white overlooks, downhill and cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and guided wildlife hikes available. Be prepared for snow and ice on trails.
Itinerary
Day 1: Elkins
TRAIN TRIPS & LOST TOWNS
Morning
Breakfast in Elkins
Whether you’re looking for a full breakfast or a light latte, fuel up in downtown Elkins before starting your journey.
- TipTop Cafe: Modern coffee shop serving specialty lattes and cold brews alongside local art
- Byrd’s House of Donuts: Wide assortment of freshly made donuts and smooth black coffee
- The Crossing Coffee Bar: Located inside the Delmonte Market; specialty coffees and savory morning bites with an adjoining shop full of local craft items.
- Scottie’s of Elkins: Local favorite with classic American diner fare
Lost Towns Tour
Stop by the Tygart Hotel in downtown Elkins for the “Lost Towns” art installation, a multi-media history of the region’s transformation. Developed by local artists, each floor of the restored hotel highlights one of the former logging boom-towns, now all but vanished into the forest.
Midday
New Tygart Flyer Train Excursion
As you head to the Elkins Depot and Visitors Center on Railroad Ave, you might hear the roar of this vintage diesel before you catch a glimpse of its blue and gold engine!
Managed by the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad, this 4-hour, 46-mile round-trip adventure passes through mountain wilderness along unique S-curve tracks to the High Falls of Cheat, an 18-foot-high, 150-foot-wide waterfall in one of the most remote settings in the region. The route follows the original Western Maryland Railway corridor that opened this region to timber and coal industries in the 1880s-90s, transforming it from an isolated frontier to an industrial center within a single generation.
- What’s Included: Cold cut lunch served aboard, narrated history of the railroad boom era, views of old logging sites and historic routes, time at the High Falls turnaround to explore
- Schedule: Typically departs 11:00 AM, returns approximately 3:00-3:30 PM
- Reservations: Essential; call 304-636-9477 or book online at mountainrailwv.com
- Accessibility Note: Due to the historical nature of the equipment and non-standard platform, the train is not wheelchair accessible. There are multiple steps to board with handrails. Parlor Car upgrades provide more comfortable seating at private tables.
Afternoon
Appalachian Forest Discovery Center & West Virginia Railroad Museum
Housed in the restored Darden Mill, these connected museums tell the story of how railroads and the lumber industry transformed the Allegheny Highlands.
Time: 45-60 minutes
Historic Downtown Elkins Walking Tour
A self-guided stroll through downtown Elkins reveals the prosperity that railroads brought to this mountain town. Points of interest include the Graceland Inn (1890s elegance now part of Davis & Elkins College), historic storefronts along Railroad Avenue, the Davis & Elkins College campus with its Tudor Revival architecture, and numerous art galleries and antique shops occupying restored historic buildings.
Night
Dinner in Elkins
- Oxley House: Upscale Appalachian cuisine in the hotel’s historic restaurant featuring seasonal and locally sourced foods; specialty cocktails, steakhouse classics, and regional game; reservations recommended
- The Forks Restaurant & Inn: French-Appalachian fusion in a romantic hilltop setting, 10 minutes from downtown; worth the drive for special occasions; must reserve several days ahead
- Smoke on the Water BBQ: Upscale BBQ in a riverside setting with creative sides and smoked meats; more casual but high quality
- CJ Maggie’s: Casual American cuisine with an extensive menu.
Lodging Options
- Tygart Hotel: Beautifully restored 1906 hotel reopened in 2024 after extensive renovation; 56 elegant rooms with modern amenities; walking distance to everything; walls decorated with work from West Virginia artists celebrating the region’s history;
- Graceland Inn & Conference Center: Historic 1890s mansion on the Davis & Elkins College campus; period elegance with modern comfort
Chain hotels: Hampton Inn, Holiday Inn Express, and others are available in Elkins - Vacation Rental: Many short-term options available, ranging from historic B&Bs to riverside retreats.
Day 2: Parsons and Thomas
BATTLEFIELDS & BLACKWATER FALLS
Morning
Directions to Parsons
From Elkins, head north on US-219 for approximately 20 miles (30 minutes). The scenic route slowly rises through pastoral farmland before climbing into the mountains of the Monongahela National Forest in Tucker County.
Corrick’s Ford Battlefield
On July 13, 1861, just three months after Fort Sumter, one of the first land battles of the Civil War was fought along the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River at this site. Confederate General Robert S. Garnett became the first general officer killed in the Civil War, shot while directing a desperate rearguard action to allow his retreating army to escape pursuing Union forces under Captain Henry Benham.
The battle marked the end of a week-long campaign in which Union General George McClellan defeated Confederate forces at Rich Mountain and Laurel Hill, forcing Garnett to retreat through rain and mud toward Virginia. Garnett’s exhausted army, having marched through the night, discarding tents and supplies to lighten their load, made a final stand at the river crossing. As Garnett turned to give an order, a Union rifleman’s ball struck him, and he toppled from his horse. Federal skirmishers splashed across the ford and found the general’s body among wildflowers along the riverbank.
In a poignant moment that illustrated how the war divided friends and families, a Union soldier who had attended West Point with Garnett arranged for his former classmate’s body to be sent home to his family in Virginia, despite being on opposing sides. The Union victory here helped secure western Virginia for the Federal cause and led directly to West Virginia statehood in 1863.
Estimated Time: 45-60 minutes (to see all historic markers)
Downtown Parsons Historic Sites
Tucker County Courthouse (Main Street)
Built in 1900, this stately courthouse stands as a monument to one of West Virginia’s most colorful political episodes, the Tucker County Seat War of 1893. The town of St. George had been the county seat since 1856, but the new railroad bypassed it in favor of a location that would become Parsons. On a dark night in 1893, Ward Parsons led 200 armed men to St. George, broke into the old courthouse, stole all the county records and even the bell from the tower, loaded everything onto wagons, and hauled it back to make his namesake town the new county seat. The current courthouse features a 1938 monument to the Battle of Corrick’s Ford on its lawn and historical markers, including one commemorating the Carrie Williams civil rights case.
Historic Western Maryland Railway Depot
This beautiful 1889 Victorian depot exemplifies the architecture that accompanied railroad expansion into the mountains. Now featuring interpretive displays, it explains how the railroad transformed this region from wilderness to industrial center within a generation.
Midday
Lunch In Parsons
- B & J’s Family Diner: Charming small-town diner offering classic American fare
- Sunrise Coffee Company: Coffee, pastries, and grilled breakfast bagels
- Piccolo Paula’s Caffé: Casual eatery with American and Italian offerings
- MR Pizza: Family-run local favorite serving hearty pizzas and wings
Cheat Potomac Ranger District & Fernow Forest
Unlike other ranger districts in the Monongahela, the Cheat Ranger District is home to one of the USDA’s open-air research laboratories. A walk along it’s riverside grounds will reveal numerous small plantations, including rare chestnut trees.
If time permits, drive along Billings Avenue to see more first-hand research in the neighboring Fernow Experimental Forest. For nearly 100 years, this area has allowed researchers to implement new techniques to sustainably harvest timber while protecting the ecosystem and watershed. At the very edge of the forest, on a ridge-line at the end of FR 709, you’ll discover a small interpretive marker that marks the birthplace of the Mon.
Afternoon
Directions to Thomas
From Parsons, head east on WV-72 to US-219, then north to Thomas. The 18-mile drive takes approximately 25 minutes through forested mountain terrain.
Coketon Civil Rights Heritage
Just outside of Thomas, on the unassuming Douglas Road, you’ll arrive at the Buxton & Landstreet Gallery. Once the heart of Tucker County’s industrial operations, these brick buildings also commemorate a powerful story of resistance.
In 1892, more than 60 years before Brown v. Board of Education, a young African American schoolteacher named Carrie Williams won a landmark civil rights case that established equal educational rights in West Virginia. When the Tucker County Board of Education shortened the school year for Black students from eight months to five months while keeping the full term for white students, Williams was advised by J.R. Clifford, West Virginia’s first Black attorney, to continue teaching for the full eight months and then demand her full salary.
Williams taught at the Coketon Colored School, serving the children of Black coal miners who had come to work in the Davis Coal and Coke Company’s operations. When the school board refused to pay her for the additional three months, Clifford filed suit. In 1898, the West Virginia Supreme Court ruled in Williams’ favor, with Justice Marmaduke Dent writing that “discrimination against people because of color alone as to privileges, immunities and equal protection of the law is unconstitutional.” This represented a rare civil rights victory before the turn of the century and established equal school terms and pay for Black teachers across West Virginia.
Coketon Industrial Heritage
Continue on Douglas Road towards Rail Falls Road to explore what remains of an industrial legacy that fueled America’s rise in the 20th century.
Coketon was the headquarters of a vast industrial empire built by Henry Gassaway Davis, one of West Virginia’s wealthiest and most powerful men. Beginning in the 1880s, the Davis Coal and Coke Company extracted coal from the surrounding mountains and converted it to coke in hundreds of beehive ovens, dome-shaped brick structures that burned coal at high temperatures to produce the carbon-rich fuel essential for steelmaking. At its peak, over 600 coke ovens operated here, employing some 1,500 workers and their families from around the world.
Continue walking down the road to catch a glimpse of several of the North Fork of the Blackwater River’s stunning waterfalls and red-stained rocks, a byproduct of the region’s industrial past.
Optional Afternoon Activity: Fairfax Stone State Park
If time permits, head 6 miles north of Thomas via US-219 and Fairfax Road.
This four-acre state park protects one of America’s oldest survey markers, the Fairfax Stone, placed in 1746 to mark the western boundary of land granted to Lord Fairfax by King Charles II of England. The survey was conducted by Colonel Peter Jefferson (Thomas Jefferson’s father) and Thomas Lewis. Two years later, in 1748, a young George Washington, then just 16 years old, helped resurvey the area.
The stone marks the headwaters of the North Branch Potomac River and was used to determine the boundary between West Virginia and Maryland, a dispute not finally resolved until the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1910. The current six-ton stone with a bronze plaque was dedicated in 1957, replacing earlier stones that had been lost to weathering and vandalism.
Night
Dinner Options
- The Smokehouse at Blackwater Falls Lodge: Regional Appalachian cuisine with seasonal outdoor patio overlooking the canyon
- Mountain State Brewing Company (Thomas): Craft brewery and restaurant with upscale pub food, local beers, pizza ovens, and patio seating
- Sirianni’s Cafe (Davis): Classic pizzeria where Italian traditions meet ski-town atmosphere; local favorite since the 1980s
- Purple Fiddle (Thomas): Casual food with live music many evenings; check the online schedule for performances
Lodging Options
- Blackwater Falls State Park Lodge: 51 renovated rooms with canyon views; on-site Smokehouse restaurant; comfortable, convenient base for Day 3
- Canaan Valley Resort State Park Lodge: Full-service resort with lodge rooms and cabin accommodations; pool, fitness center, dining
- Bright Morning Inn (Davis): Charming bed and breakfast with on-site Milo’s Cafe
- Vacation rentals: Numerous cabin and house rentals available throughout the Davis/Thomas area
Day 3: Davis, Canaan Valley, and Return to Elkins
BOOM towns & Bickle knob
Morning
Breakfast in Thomas and Davis
- TipTop Coffee Bar (Thomas): Artisan coffee, baked goods, and light fare in a cozy space popular with locals and visitors.
- Happy & More Bakery & Cafe (Thomas): Pastries, light café fare, and casual breakfast options in a small-town setting
- Sawmill Restaurant (Davis): Big, old-fashioned breakfasts and buckwheat cakes.
- Trailhead Coffee Shop (Davis): Specialty coffee and grab-and-go bites in a relaxed space frequented by hikers and travelers.
- The Breakfast Nook (Canaan Valley): Hearty morning classics in a cozy environment
Blackwater Falls State Park
Drive to Blackwater Falls State Park to see the famous waterfall and learn about the region’s natural and human history. West Virginia’s most photographed waterfall drops 57 feet in a stunning amber cascade. The dark color comes from tannins released by fallen hemlock and red spruce needles, the same process that colors tea.
The park was established in 1937, built largely by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. At the falls, learn about Conquessing Sandstone and the geologic forces that fed Tucker County’s economic boom, grab a picture at an Almost Heaven swing, and read the first-hand accounts of early explorers like David Hunter Strother, a journalist, artist, and politician better known by his pseudonym Porte Crayon.
There are two ADA accessible viewing areas on either side of the falls.
To learn more, visit the park’s Nature Center to explore the region’s logging history and ecological recovery.
Blackwater Falls Trail
- Distance: 0.5 mile (out-and-back)
- Elevation Gain: 120 ft
- Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy
Pendleton Point Overlook
This overlook offers views of the deepest point of Blackwater Canyon, a 1,000-foot gorge carved by the amber-colored river. The road and overlook were built by Civilian Conservation Corps crews in the 1930s as part of New Deal programs that employed young men across the country during the Great Depression. CCC workers built many of the park’s facilities and trails, leaving a lasting legacy of craftsmanship in stone and timber.
Midday
Historic Thomas Walking Tour
The historic coal town of Thomas swelled from remote wilderness to over 2,300 residents by 1910, with surrounding coal camps bringing the total population to nearly 5,000. Many of these workers were immigrants from southeastern Europe, bringing hallmarks of their culinary traditions and architectural inclinations to the Appalachians. The Thomas Commercial Historic District preserves the downtown architecture of the coal boom era. Guided by historic signage, the walking tour highlights the landmarks and legacies of the Allegheny Highlands transformation.
Scenic Drive Through Canaan Valley
The drive from Blackwater Falls to Canaan Valley on WV-32 reveals the unique character of the highest valley of its size east of the Rocky Mountains. The valley’s name comes from early settlers who, upon seeing its remote beauty and harsh winters, compared it to the biblical land of Canaan.
Frontier settlers established farms here in the 1800s despite harsh conditions, including snow in every month except July and August. The valley floor was once extensively farmed and logged, but today, much of the land is being restored to its original wetland character through the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1994 as one of the largest and most diverse freshwater wetland ecosystems in the central Appalachians.
Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge
The Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge protects one of the highest and most unique mountain valleys in the eastern United States, where harsh climate, poor soils, and long winters historically limited large-scale settlement. Early residents carved out a difficult farm life through small homesteads and subsistence agriculture, often facing isolation and short growing seasons. Because intensive development never fully took hold, much of the valley’s wetland and meadow landscape remained intact. Today, the refuge preserves both this rare ecosystem and the story of the resilient families who once tried to make a living there. Stop by the Visitors Center to learn more about ongoing efforts to restore and protect this unique landscape, and visit their website to catch upcoming nature walks and wildlife presentations!
Farm View Trail
Discover what remains of those early farms in the rugged wilderness, including vintage farm equipment and tools.
- Distance: 2.5 miles (out-and-back)
- Elevation Gain: 150 ft
- Estimated Time: 45-60 minutes
- Difficulty: Easy-Moderate
Lunch
Return to Thomas or Davis for lunch at one of the previously listed restaurants, or continue to Elkins for lunch.
Afternoon
Return to Elkins
The 35-mile drive from Canaan Valley to Elkins via US-33 takes approximately 50 minutes and offers beautiful mountain scenery. This route crosses the Allegheny Mountain divide and descends through the Monongahela National Forest.
Bickle Knob Observation Tower
On the drive back, turn onto Forest Road 91, approximately 10 miles northeast of Elkins (accessible via a turn-off from US-33) for a final scenic overlook on your Mon Forest journey,
Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933, this historic fire tower stands at 4,003 feet overlooking Otter Creek Wilderness. The tower was used for spotting wildfires until the 1970s, when aerial detection became standard. The original cab has been replaced with a wooden viewing platform. On clear days, visitors can see distant windmills in Tucker and Barbour counties, and reportedly as far as the Shinnston smokestacks in Harrison County.
Night
Return to Elkins
Complete the loop with dinner in downtown Elkins. Take time to explore any shops or galleries missed on Day 1, or simply relax at the Tygart Hotel lobby with an evening cocktail.
Dinner Options
- Oxley House: Return to the Tygart Hotel’s restaurant for a final evening of Appalachian cuisin
- Big Timber Brewing Company: Local craft brewery with riverside taproom; does not serve food but welcomes outside food
- Fox Hops Brewery: Women-owned craft brewery opened in 2024; house-made beers and food, including sandwiches and appetizers
- Bambino’s Bistro: Italian fare including wood-fired pizzas
Planning Notes
Reservations
- Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad: Book 2-4 weeks ahead; call 304-636-9477 or visit mountainrailwv.com
- The Forks Restaurant: Reserve several days ahead; call 304-637-0932
- Oxley House: Reservations recommended, especially weekends; call 304-924-4279
- Fall foliage lodging: Book 2-3 months ahead for mid-October visits
Navigation & Cell Service
Cell service is limited or nonexistent along parts of this route, particularly on US-33 as it departs Canaan Valley. Download offline maps before departing
Weather Considerations
High-elevation areas in Canaan Valley experience significantly cooler temperatures and more frequent precipitation than the surrounding valleys. Conditions can change rapidly; bring layers regardless of the season.
Road Conditions
Some destinations require travel on gravel Forest Service roads. These roads are not maintained in winter and may be impassable when covered in snow.
Wildlife
Black bears are present throughout this region; practice proper food storage and leave no trace. The high-elevation areas support species typically found much farther north, including snowshoe hare and saw-whet owl. Timber rattlesnakes occur in rocky areas at lower elevations.
Leave No Trace
Some of these trails pass through sensitive high-elevation ecosystems or protected natural areas. Stay on established routes, pack out all trash, and respect wilderness regulations.