Itineraries
Where the Civil War Began
Journey Overview
Before the railroads, a handful of turnpikes were the only way across the rugged wall of the Alleghenies, and in the summer of 1861, the first sustained land campaign of the Civil War was fought to control them. The months of fighting that followed held western Virginia for the Union and cleared the way for a new state to be carved from the mountains. This three-day route follows the campaign in the order it happened: from the war’s first land battle at Philippi, through the twin engagements at Laurel Hill and Rich Mountain, to Garnett’s death at Corricks Ford, and finally up the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike to the mountain forts where Robert E. Lee’s first offensive of the war came apart. The route suits history-minded travelers comfortable with shorter, easy walking.
Best Times to Visit
May through October offers the best conditions, with July marking the Anniversary of several engagements along this route.
Rich Mountain and Laurel Hill host annual reenactments in July along with heritage festivals.
The Beverly Heritage Center, Appalachian Forest Discovery Center, and other visitor centers and museums keep their fullest schedules in season.
High-elevation earthworks at Cheat Summit, Camp Allegheny, and Camp Elkwater are most accessible when access roads are dry. Winter snow complicates access to the higher sites.
Autumn color along the Tygart Valley, Staunton-Parkersburg Scenic Byway, Rich Mountain Scenic Backway, and Camp Allegheny Scenic Backway corridors is exceptional.
Heritage, Respect, & Leave No Trace
The Civil War sites along this route mark actual battle locations where soldiers fought and died. Treat all historical sites with respect, stay on marked paths, and do not remove artifacts or disturb structures.
Civil War MAP & Itinerary
Day 1: Garnett's Rapid Retreat
Philippi Races • Corricks Ford Battlefield • Laurel Hill Battlefield
Follow the opening moves of the Civil War through the West Virginia mountains, from the first organized land battle of the war in Phillipi, to Parsons’ Corricks Ford, where Confederate General Robert Garnett became the first general on either side to die in combat.
Morning
“We gave ourselves, this aristocracy of service, no end of military airs; some of us even going to the extreme of keeping our jackets buttoned and our hair combed. We had been in action, too; had shot off a Confederate leg at Philippi, “the first battle of the war.”
Ambrose Bierce, Union Soldier & Author
Start your day off in Downtown Elkins with a classic American breakfast at Scottie’s or The Lunchbox and a specialty latte at TipTop Cafe or The Crossing Coffee Bar as the sun rises over the misty Allegheny Mountains that surround Elkins. From town, follow US-250, known as the Blue-and-Grey Highway, north for approximately 30 miles through the Tygart Valley to the town of Philippi.
The Philippi Races
On June 3, 1861, Union troops surprised a Confederate encampment here in what is generally considered the first organized land battle of the Civil War. The Confederate withdrawal was so hasty it earned the derisive nickname that stuck. Casualties were few, but the outcome kept the B&O Railroad in Union hands and set everything that followed in motion.
West Virginia’s oldest covered bridge, used by troops from both sides during the battle, is one of just a few remaining covered bridges that still carry vehicle traffic today as part of the US highway system. West Virginia Civil War Trails markers near the bridge and on Talbot’s Hill (on a former university campus above town) describe the fight from both sides.
The nearby Barbour County Historical Museum is adjacent to the bridge and houses local Civil War artifacts and exhibits on regional history.
Midday
“I don’t anticipate anything very brilliant- indeed I shall esteem myself fortunate if I escape disaster.”
Gen. Robert S. Garnett, C.S.A.
From Philippi, take US-250 south approximately 15 miles to Belington. The battlefield lies southeast of town; look for Laurel Mountain Road and Battlefield Drive. This is the road Morris’s 4,000 Federals marched down from Philippi in July 1861.
Laurel Hill Battlefield
From July 7 to 11, 1861, Union forces under General Thomas Morris skirmished with General Robert Garnett’s entrenched Confederates here. Morris’s orders were not to win but to “amuse,” holding Garnett in place while McClellan flanked Rich Mountain sixteen miles south. It worked. The battle itself was a draw, but when word of Rich Mountain arrived on July 11, Garnett abandoned his fortifications and began the retreat that would kill him two days later.
The City of Belington acquired fifty acres of the Confederate camp and battlefield in 2004, which sit alongside the small Mill Creek Reservoir. Trails and interpretive signage are on site, and the park is open dawn to dusk. An annual reenactment is staged in July.
After visiting the battlefield, stop by the Belington Bakery on your return drive along US-250, or fill up with Elkins’ many dining options.
Afternoon
“They have not given me an adequate force. I can do nothing. They have sent me to my death.”
Gen. Robert S. Garnett, C.S.A.
From Belington, follow US-250 north briefly, then turn east onto WV Route 92 and north on US-219 for nearly 30 miles toward Parsons. Garnett’s column covered this ground in a desperate two-day retreat, abandoning wagons as they went. For a shorter drive, visitors can take US-48 instead.
Corricks Ford Battlefield Park
On July 13, 1861, Union pursuers caught Garnett’s 3,500-strong rear guard at a ford on Shavers Fork of the Cheat River. Directing his men across the water, Garnett was shot and killed – the first general officer to die in the Civil War, on either side. His command collapsed, and his men left with scarcely more than the clothes on their backs, abandoning their cannon, supplies, and wagons. The Corrick House, where Union soldiers carried his body after the battle, still stands, having served during the war as a temporary hospital, headquarters, and prison.
The American Battlefield Trust has preserved 26 acres. Interpretive signage and a short trail wrap around Corricks Ford Battlefield Park, at the end of Poplar Street in Parsons, alongside the Allegheny Highlands Trail.
Night
Parsons offers a handful of small local restaurants along Main Street and near the river, including Black Fork Pizza & Brews and Piccolo Paula’s Caffe. Alternatively, visitors can return to Elkins for a wider array of dining options and local breweries like Big Timber Brewing and Fox Hops.
Lodging Options:
- River City Inn, several campgrounds, and vacation rentals in Parsons.
- Return to Elkins: Approximately 30 minutes south on US-219, with a full range of hotels, restaurants, and breweries.
Day 2: McClellan's Unexpected Approach
Beverly Heritage Center • Rich Mountain Battlefield • Camp Garnett
Stand on the battlefield that launched a Union general to national command: the July 1861 victory at Rich Mountain broke Confederate control of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike and made George McClellan’s reputation overnight.
Morning
Appalachian Discovery Center
After filling up on breakfast in Elkins or Parsons, National Park fans should pay a visit to the Appalachian Forest National Heritage Area’s Discovery Center to get their NPS Passport stamp. Keep an ear open for the telltale whistle of the Durbin & Greenbrier Scenic Railroad’s New Tygart Flyer locomotive, which runs right alongside the museum.
Near the Elkins Visitors Center, located in the railroad depot, visitors will also find several interpretive signs about the impact of the war in what would become the new state’s largest county.
From downtown Elkins, follow US-219/250 south approximately five miles to Beverly.
Midday
“I was a Union woman from the crown of my head to the soles of my feet.”
Laura Jackson Arnold, Sister of Stonewall Jackson
Beverly Heritage Center
Housed in four joined historic buildings – including the 1808 Randolph County Courthouse and the ca. 1856 Bushrod Crawford House that McClellan used as his headquarters – this dynamic museum serves as the interpretive anchor for the entire First Campaign.
Exhibits cover the Battle of Rich Mountain, the strategic role of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike, its time under Union occupation, and daily life in a frontier mountain county seat. Take a historic walking tour to discover multiple historic sites in downtown before driving up to the mountain battlefield.
One of the most interesting notes about Beverly is that it was the home of the notorious Confederate General Stonewall Jackson’s sister, Laura Jackson Arnold, who, in opposition to her brother, was a dedicated Unionist. After the Battle of Rich Mountain, she nursed countless injured soldiers back to health.
From Beverly, turn west off US-250 onto Rich Mountain Road, a state Scenic Backway, and follow the battlefield signs approximately five miles to the top of the pass.
Afternoon
“Those on whose judgment I rely tell me that I fought the battle splendidly, and that it was a masterpiece of art.”
Gen. George B. McClellan, U.S.A
Rich Mountain Battlefield
On July 11, 1861, Union troops under William Rosecrans climbed a mountain path to strike the Confederate rear at the Hart farm, where roughly 310 defenders held the turnpike pass with a single cannon. The Confederates were routed; Camp Garnett was abandoned that night, and Pegram surrendered at Beverly two days later. The victory gave the Union control of northwestern Virginia and carried McClellan to command of the Army of the Potomac.
The site preserves the summit battlefield, the connecting section of original turnpike, and the Camp Garnett earthworks below. Interpretive signage, a short walking trail, and remnants of the Hart family spring house are on site. The ground is deliberately left rough and historic; footing requires care. Keep an eye out for historic graffiti left by soldiers on the nearby boulders near the site of the old stables
Continue another mile and a half down the western side to reach Camp Garnett.
Camp Garnett
At the western base of Rich Mountain, stop at the small parking area or the nearby Field of Fire Park for a short walk along a 0.75-mile out-and-back interpretive trail that marks the site of the ill-positioned Confederate camp. Well-preserved earthworks line the shaded path, offering a window into the days leading up to the battle.
Continue west on Rich Mountain Road, passing through the small communities of Coalton and Norton, to complete the quiet remainder of the winding scenic backroad before joining US-48, or return up the mountain through Beverly to Elkins.
Night
Dinner in Elkins
- CJ Maggie’s: Casual American with a wide menu in downtown Elkins
- Bambino’s Bistro: Italian fare, including wood-fired pizza
- The Forks: An elevated, chef-driven tasting-menu experience in a mountain setting outside town.
- Clementines Cantina: Fast-casual burritos and bowls open late.
Lodging Options:
- Downtown Elkins hotels and inns: Several options within walking distance of restaurants.
- Vacation rentals in Beverly and the Tygart Valley.
- Stuart and Bear Heaven Campgrounds (Monongahela National Forest): East of Elkins, seasonal.
Day 3: Lee's Trouble on the Turnpike
Fort Marrow • Fort Milroy • Camp Bartow • Camp Allegheny
Climb to the highest fortifications of the Civil War’s Eastern Campaign, where Robert E. Lee’s first offensive campaign unraveled in the rain and fog of Cheat Mountain in September 1861. This day follows the Union defensive line up the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike to earthworks still visible at 4,000 feet — the ground where Lee’s early-war reputation faltered.
Morning
“We are in a lovely little valley… A perfect camp, perfectly protected by entrenchments.”
Rutherford B. Hayes, Future U.S. President
From Elkins, follow US-219/250 south through Beverly. Before turning right in Huttonsville toward Valley Head, make a quick stop at the gas station for an interpretive sign located at the parking lot’s edge before continuing on US-219 to Kumbrabow State Forest.
Camp Elkwater & Fort Marrow
Near Kumbrabow, West Virginia’s highest state forest, a small pull-off along the winding Kumbrabow Road marks the remains of Camp Elkwater. A short 0.1-mile path leads to surviving earthworks and a historic cemetery. While the site is owned by Randolph County, it borders private property, so please visit respectfully.
Union troops under General Joseph Reynolds built Camp Elkwater after the victory at Rich Mountain in July 1861. Its entrenchments blocked the Huttonsville–Huntersville Turnpike, a strategic route across the Alleghenies toward the Virginia Central Railroad. Together with Cheat Summit Fort, the camp protected the approaches to the upper Tygart Valley.
Camp Elkwater became a target of Robert E. Lee’s first offensive campaign in September 1861. While three Confederate brigades moved against Cheat Summit, two others approached the roughly 3,000 Union soldiers stationed here. Lee called their tents “a tempting sight,” but his by-now exhausted troops never mounted a coordinated assault. After skirmishing and the death of Lee’s aide, John Augustine Washington of Mount Vernon, the Confederates withdrew.
The Union garrison remained until spring 1862. Its best-preserved feature is a hilltop artillery redoubt named “Fort Marrow” by soldiers of the Third Ohio Infantry. A family cemetery now occupies the center of the former fortifications.
If you have extra time while at Kumbrabow, be sure to stop by the nearby Mill Creek Falls, located along a short boardwalk in the forest!
Midday
“I could see the enemy’s tents on Valley River… just below me. It was a tempting sight. We waited for the attack on Cheat Mountain, which was to be the signal… But the signal did not come.”
Gen. Robert E. Lee, C.S.A
Services are limited between Huttonsville and Cheat Summit. Pack a lunch in Elkins or Beverly, or follow up with lunch in Durbin. Continue southeast on US-250, climbing onto the imposing Cheat Mountain. Watch for Forest Service signage once over the summit as you approach a small bridge crossing the Upper Shavers Fork River. The final approach to Cheat Summit Fort is unpaved but accessible to most vehicles.
Fort Milroy & The Battle of Cheat Summit Fort
At nearly 4,000 feet, this was among the highest fortifications of the war. Built to command the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike and shield the B&O Railroad, it was the target of Lee’s September 1861 offensive – an ambitious five-column plan that dissolved in rain, fog, and confusion without a coordinated attack ever being launched.
While it was only September, the 300 men of the 14th Indiana endured frigid weather. Atop one of the state’s highest peaks, it was said to be so cold that Union horses froze to death standing up. Despite the challenging conditions, by the time the Confederates arrived on the 12th, the Union defenders were so entrenched that the attackers believed the number of the fort’s defenders was much larger than originally reported, leading to a withdrawl down the turnpike.
Visiting Elkwater first makes the geometry of Lee’s plan legible: two forts, five columns, and a scheme that came apart before a shot was coordinated. The earthworks remain visible along a short 0.25-mile walk from the parking area, dotted with wildflowers, interpretive signage, and a small viewing platform.
Afternoon
“The air was literally full of shot and bursting shells for over four hours. Our boys stood it like veterans, never flinching, though the iron hail plowed up the earth all around our battery positions.”
Col. Jacob Ammen, 24th Ohio Infantry
Continue southeast on US-250 through the small town of Durbin.
Before cresting the mountain, be sure to stop by a roadside sign near the Gaudineer Scenic Area that tells the story of the region’s geology and of early postmen traveling the treacherous route.
Hanging Rock Ambush
Near the West Fork Rail Trail parking area in Durbin, you’ll find an interpretive sign for the Hanging Rock Ambush. Leading up to the Battle of Greenbrier, a small detachment of Burdsal’s Ohio Cavalry went down the mountain to scout Confederate positions. Little did they know, as they stopped to let their horses drink along the banks of the Greenbrier’s West Fork, local guerrillas hid in the rocks above. Caught by complete surprise, nearly the whole party fell dead in the water.
Afterward, head towards the USFS Greenbrier Ranger Station in Bartow. The ranger station is worth a stop for additional maps and information, as well as its interpretive signage.
Camp Bartow & Battle of the Greenbrier River
Once the site of an early toll-booth along the turnpike, at the corner where US-250 and WV-92 split, are the Camp Bartow Preserve and the historic Yeager house.
Confederate General Henry Jackson seized the Yeager farm here in August 1861 and named the camp for Francis Bartow, a fellow Georgian killed at First Bull Run. His men dug earthworks along the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike, and on October 3, 1861, roughly 1,800 defenders held the line against a larger Union reconnaissance-in-force under General Joseph Reynolds. The fighting was mostly an artillery duel, with the trenches keeping casualties low, and Reynolds withdrew to Cheat Summit after failing to cross the East Fork of the Greenbrier.
Although the battle was indecisive, the 7th Indiana would later earn the embarrassing nickname of “The Banner Regiment” after realizing they had forgotten their flag in a nearby tree. Confederate Brigadier General Henry R. Jackson would exaggerate the engagement’s impact, boasting about the debris coming off Garnett’s command.
The action helped pave the way to West Virginia statehood, and the writer Ambrose Bierce, who was present, later drew on the place in several works. The West Virginia Land Trust preserved the site’s fourteen-acre core; a quarter-mile interpretive out-and-back climbs to the camp overlook, where well-preserved earthworks, two artillery lunettes, and visible tent pads from the 31st Virginia Infantry’s campground remain beneath a grove of old white oaks.
After visiting Camp Bartow, complete your trip along the Civil War’s First Campaign by following the winding unpaved Old Pike Road, part of the Camp Allegheny Scenic Backway, for one final stop.
Camp Allegheny & Battle of Allegheny Mountain
Here, surrounded today by forests and fields, Confederate forces fortified one of the highest military positions of the entire war, located at over 4,000 feet. Troops faced snow and brutal cold well before winter set in. On December 13, 1861, Union troops attempted to dislodge the defenders from the summit in a two-pronged attack that failed, leaving the Confederates in command of the turnpike. Despite their fierce defense, the army would abandon the position at winter’s end, falling back to Virginia to join forces with General Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson. Preserved earthworks and interpretive markers remain at the site.
Night
Exit the scenic backway right at the Virginia line, a poignant symbol of the role these battles played in shaping the state, and return on US-250 to Durbin.
Only home to a small farming hamlet at the time of the war, Durbin would, in a few short decades, become a booming industrial hub where rivers and railroads joined. The town sits directly on the historic turnpike route at the headwaters of the Greenbrier River, and its main street still carries the Staunton-Parkersburg name.
Dinner in Durbin
- Rustic Roots Bar & Grill: Locally owned, with burgers, sandwiches, and live music.
- Station 2 Restaurant: Comfort food in the heart of town, attached to a motel.
Lodging in Durbin
- Station 2 Motel: Basic rooms attached to the restaurant
- Vacation rentals in Durbin and the Greenbrier headwaters
- Island and Lake Buffalo Campgrounds (Monongahela National Forest): South of Durbin, seasonal
- Return to Elkins: Approximately one hour northwest via US-250
Western Virginia Campaign Timeline
- June 3, 1861 — Philippi Races
Union troops surprise a green Confederate camp in a pre-dawn pincer attack, the war’s first organized land battle. - July 11, 1861— Battle of Rich Mountain & Camp Garnett
McClellan feints at Laurel Hill while Rosecrans flanks the Confederate rear at Rich Mountain. The position collapses, breaking Confederate control of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike. - July 13, 1861 — Battle of Corricks Ford
Union pursuers overtake General Garnett’s retreating column; Garnett is killed at the ford, the first general to die in the war. - September 10, 1861 — Battle of Carnifex Ferry
A separate Union advance secures the Kanawha Valley to the southwest. - September 12–15, 1861— Battle of Cheat Mountain & Fort Milroy
Robert E. Lee’s first offensive of the war dissolves in rain and confusion. - October 3, 1861 — Battle of Greenbrier River & Camp Bartow
Reynolds marches 5,000 men from Cheat Summit to attack the Confederate camp at Bartow. A four-hour artillery duel settles nothing, and he returns to the fort. - December 13, 1861 — Battle of Camp Allegheny
In the campaign’s final action, Confederates hold their 4,000-foot mountaintop position against a Union assault, closing the year with the turnpike’s high ground still in Southern hands.
Planning Notes
Heritage, Respect, & Leave No Trace
The Civil War sites along this route mark actual battle locations where soldiers fought and died. Treat all historical sites with respect, stay on marked paths, and do not remove artifacts or disturb structures.
Navigation and Cell Service
Cell service is limited throughout some of this route, particularly on US-250 towards Durbin, due to the National Radio Quiet Zone. Download offline maps before departure and carry paper maps as a backup.
Road Conditions
The Forest Service road to Fort Marrow and the county road to Camp Allegheny are unpaved but generally passable for most vehicles in dry conditions. Access to some of these sites in Winter and Early Spring may be limited due to snow and ice. Roads may be narrow and winding; please drive safely.
Seasonal Operations
Many museums and campgrounds operate seasonally from late spring through early fall. Always verify hours and operations before visiting.
